How to Tile a Floor

Step 1 – Make sure you have all your tools ready. 

Step 2 – Measure your area to order the correct amount of tiles

• Measure the height and width of the area you are going to tile with a tape measure, times the two sizes together and you will get the number of square meters you will need.

• For irregular shaped rooms, divide the area up into different segments to work out individually, and then add together.

• Measure any doors, windows or obstructions and take the size away from the total.

• Allow for an extra 5/10% for any breakages and cuts (for larger tiles you may need to allow extra tiles).

Step 3 – Prepare the surface

• Clean: Use a damp cloth to remove surface contamination or using a suitable degreasing agent, note: always clean down after with clean water and leave to dry.

• Dry: Ensure the background and surface is fully dry.

• Sound/Solid: Cut out any loose areas and make good and leave to dry.

• Flat: Ensure the surface is flat and to SR1 (no more than 3mm over a 2m straight edge). On floors, the use of a levelling compound such as ARDEX K 40 HB or ARDITEX NA maybe recommended.

• Priming: Priming the surface maybe required with an acrylic primer such as ARDEX P 51 Primer. Mix with water or apply neat – check technical data sheets for correct mixing ratios and dilution rates.

• Waterproofing: In wet areas the use of a waterproofing product is recommended such as ARDEX WPC Waterproof Protection System– follow manufacturers’ recommendation on application. 

Step 4 – Make a tile staff to help gauge how your tiles are going to fall around windows and doors etc.

• Lay the length of timer on a flat surface.
• Place a tile on the length of timber flush with the timber edge.
• Mark the timber at the edge of the tile.
• Ensure that the ‘marks’ are square.
• Position the spacer at the edge of the tile and place a second tile against the spacer, again marking the timber at the edge of the tile.
• Repeat the procedure until the end of timber is reached, finally cutting off any surplus.

Step 5 – Setting Out

• With chalk or a pencil, measure a centre mark between the opposite walls and draw a straight line down. Don’t assume that the opposite walls are equal in size, as a lot of rooms aren’t perfectly square. 

• Repeat this again by measuring the centre of the line that you draw.  Lay the square onto the centre line and centre mark to draw a line 90° to the first line. Starting at the middle point, dry lay a row of tiles in both directions up to the wall and make sure you include 3mm tile spacers so the tile joints are even. You can also use the tile staff to work out where the tiles will fall.

• If there is only a thin piece of tile left at the wall, you can re-arrange the centre tile so there is a larger section of tile. Leave about half a tile or more as it can be difficult to fit smaller sections of tile (note: you may need to remark your lines on to the floor to fit the setting out).

Step 6 – Cutting Tiles

• A Manual cutter can be used for straight cuts, and an electric cutter for right angles, curved edges and thicker tiles such as porcelain and natural stone.
• To measure where the tile needs to be cut, place a tile on top of the last full tile, and mark with a pencil where the overlap is, this is where you need to cut. 
• Make sure you leave enough room for the grout joint and movement joint (example corners and perimeters). Movement joints must not be grouted, the use of a sealant would be recommended.
• Place the tile in the tile cutter, square it up to the plate and get the cutter and pencil mark in line.
• Press down firmly on the handle of the cutter and push forward across the tile to score a line.
• Press and apply pressure on each side of the tile and it will snap into two pieces. Some cutters will have an all in one breaker built in, just put the clamp part on the tile and push down on the handle to snap the tile.
• If the cut isn’t clean and the edges are slightly rough, use a file or rubbing stone to smooth the edges.
• For smaller or curved pieces, use tile nippers to cut small pieces off to achieve the correct size or shape required. 

Step 7 – Laying Tiles

• Make sure you plan ahead so you are able to exit the room without stepping on any tiles as they won’t have set. If the room is essential, you can tile half of the room at a time, so you are still able to access the room. 

• Mix the recommended tile adhesive in a mixing bucket as to the instructions on the bag. Depending on the location and background, a flexible water-resistant cement-based adhesive may be used such as ARDEX X 77 or a pourable adhesive such as ARDEX X 325 PTB. Working off your set out lines and/or from a straight edge, spread the adhesive on the floor, holding the notched trowel (minimum 8-10mm notched size) at a 45° angle and drag across the floor spreading evenly, ensuring the notches are in the same direction. Only cover a small area at a time- approx. 1 square meter, as the adhesive will skin on the surface.

• Place the tile on the bed of adhesive, press down and twist and slide into place to ensure the adhesive ribs compress fully and solid bed fixing is achieved (for larger tiles, it may require a thin layer of adhesive on the back of the tile as well as the floor).Put the spirit level/straight edge on the tile in both directions to ensure it is even and flat. Insert a tile spacer in between each tile.

• Wash down the surface and clean the joint as you go along.

Step 8 – Grouting

• Ensure the correct grout is used for the location, tile type and background material. ARDEX FLEX-FS or FLEX-FL are recommended for wall and floor grouting or ARDEX EG 18 Plus epoxy grout where a chemical resistant fully waterproof solution is needed. ARDEX FLEX-FS is a flexible standard-set grout for thin joints (up to 4mm), ARDEX FLEX-FL is a rapid-setting grout for joints up to 15mm wide.
  
• Leave the tiles to set (follow setting times on the adhesive bag or bucket) before grouting can be started

• Mix water and grout powder in a mixing bucket as instructed on the packaging. Bear in mind not to mix too much as some can harden quickly.
  
  
• Place some grout on the tiles, hold the grout float at a 45° angle and apply the grout ensure all the joints are filled. Remove excess grout from the tile surface as you go.

• Once all the joints between the tiles are grouted (working in small areas), leave to dry for approx. 10-15 minutes then wipe off the tile surface with a damp sponge, but don’t put too much pressure on the grout joints and don’t over wash.

• The face of the tiles may require a second wash down to get rid of the grout residue.

• Once the grout is dry, use a clean cloth polish down the tiles until completely clean.

Step 8 – Finishing

• Cut the end of the ARDEX ST Sealant silicone cartridge slightly wider than the sealant gap and place in the caulking gun.

• Hold the tip at a 45° angle and apply into the corners etc, squeezing the caulking gun and working from one end to the other, maintaining an even and consistent amount of silicone.

• After applying, use a silicone smoothing tool to take off any excess silicone and smooth the edge.